Friday, 23 February 2018

Dreamy Sunset // Red & Gold Eyeshadow Tutorial

Friday, 23 February 2018

Hold up.. an ACTUAL beauty post?! Not another inspirational rant on self-improvement?

That's right.. I know, it's been absolutely ages since I last did any kind of make-up review/tutorial/appreciation post, but after I did my make-up so damn well for a recent special occasion I decided I must share it with you all.

Of course, I would like to again clarify that I'm no expert and don't claim to be. In fact, my make-up is usually average at best, but I suppose I've improved a lot over the last few years and learned a few new tricks along the way.

This look just kind of evolved as it went along. The only thing I had in mind was using colours like reds/golds/peaches on the eyes, and tried to use my memory of Youtube beauty guru tutorials on how to correctly apply it. However, I will try to outline what I did step-by-step, so that you can achieve this same dreamy look, kinda resembling a beautiful sunset!. I'd say these shades are the most flattering on blue eyes, but I'm sure they'd look awesome on any eye colour!

Without further ado, let's get started ­čĺ×

Time: 1-2 hours
Difficulty: Intermediate
Occasion: Formal, Party

P A R T  O N E :  T H E  F A C E

First things first, we want a nice clean base to apply our make-up. Seems obvious, I know, but it’s one of the simple things you can do to prepare for a full face of heavy slap, and really makes a difference in the overall appearance and application process.

After I cleansed and moisturised, I used a little blob of Barry M's Flawless Original primer, and applied it all over my face (with my hands) in circular motions. Next, for the base of my make-up, i.e the foundation, I used Revlon Photoready Airbrush Effect in 001 Ivory, and this P.S PRO Foundation Brush to apply it as, unfortunately, my beauty blender was chewed to bits by a sneaky Siberian husky! The brush is fantastic though, especially as it’s very affordable being from the  Primark range. I glide the foundation on with the brush then lightly dab it to blend, just as I would with a beauty blender or make-up sponge.

I like to follow this step immediately with my liquid highlighter, L'Oreal True Match Highlight in 301 Icy Glow, placing 3 dots on the cheekbones, under and above the eyebrows, above the Cupid’s bow, and in the centre of the bottom lip. I dabbed this again with the same brush I used for the foundation, but any sponge would do.

Don't be too frightened by what you see here! This is just my face, but I thought it would probably be extremely helpful to get an idea of exactly where I'm placing the products. For reference, the yellow circles refer to concealer, the white/peachy circles are where I'd place my highlighter, and obviously, the brown dots are where the contour should be.

Next up is the concealer. This one is a very bright yellow to counteract those pesky dark circles, and boy do I have those. Sadly I think it’s hereditary due to my thin skin under the eyes, so they’re never quite gone completely!

I applied my BarryM Flawless Colour Correcting Wand (for light to medium skin tones) underneath the eyes (using little dots first, then blending outwards), on the outer corners of my nostrils (to combat redness) and over any acne scars/spots, usually on my forehead or cheeks. I like to use my fingers (clean, of course) to dab the concealer into my skin, but a concealer brush would work fine too. 

I’m still very much a beginner when it comes to ‘baking’, and if you’re a make-up noobie that term probably sounds incredibly intimidating. But it’s basically done to allow the concealer and foundation to ‘set’ and stay in place all day. The usual product for this that people would use is translucent face powder, which I unfortunately do not own and instead substituted for my LACURA Beauty Compact Powder in 10 Transparent. I apply this under the eye area with a powder brush (I used RealTechniques buffing brush), again pressing it gently against the skin. 

But STOP right there! We are not going to blend it out or sweep it away just yet. It probably looks a little cakey and scary, but trust me - the longer it’s left the better the make up will stick. We’ll move onto our eyebrows whilst we let the baking do its thing. 

P A R T  T W O : T H E  E Y E S

The eyes are probably my favourite part of a make-up routine, whilst also being the most risky and fear-inducing. It can either go horribly right or wrong, especially when it comes to your eyebrows. I’ve definitely stepped up my routine since my last brow tutorial, and for the most part I’m usually very happy with the way they turn out!

Using NYX Tame&Frame Tinted Brow Pomade in 03 Brunette, I take RealTechnique's Detailer Brush and line the top and bottom of my brows as closely to the natural hairline as possible. I find that I do have to extend them out a little but further or higher sometimes, but that’s just because I have the worlds most annoying uneven eyebrows! Trying to make them match in thickness is a challenge in itself.

I apply a little more of the pomade over and under the arch area, and use a spoolie brush with a bit of Vaseline (or hairspray works too) and brush the eyebrows from the start so that they begin to blend with the lines I have drawn. It’s best not to strive for perfection with eyebrows as you’ll very rarely get it, so refrain from overdoing it and step away from the mirror once you’re done.

*(Psst! I also sometimes use my George Tamer Brow Cream because of the handy little brush, and sometimes mix between the shades depending on whether I want darker or lighter eyebrows)

Now that your eyebrows are complete, it’s safe to gently buff away the remaining powder you left baking on your face, and move onto the eyeshadow.

Using a mixture of the shades from the Makeup Revolution London pallets (Love the Revolution and Revolution Flawless Ultra Eyeshadow), and Too Faced Boudoir Eyes, I blended the shades to create a dramatic, romantic look. To prime my eyes, I used '1 Paper' from the Flawless MRL palette as a base, applying all over the lid using a flat brush (this one was part of a No7 beauty gift set I received aaages ago). Then, I lightly patted the shades '19 Universal' and '27 Red Night', on the outer corner of my eye using the GWA Petite Crease brush, and following with the red shade from the other 'Love the Revolution' palette towards the centre. On the outer crease of my eye, I then switched to '29 Burgandy Nights' using the GWA Tapered Blending brush to blend into the crease and extending it outwards slightly from where the outer corner of the eye ends (basically, where you would apply winged eyeliner). 
Blend the colours all together at the top of the lid with a light, nude brown ('6 Unlimited' or '3 Buff'') holding the blending brush ever so lightly between your fingers.

The centre of the eye is where you get to have all the fun. Using the brightest gold shades you have, dab gently in the middle of the eyelid with a flat brush once again. It sometimes helps to dip the brush into a little bit of clean water first, to really bring out the colour in the shadow and make it look more pigmented. Dab the golds in the tear ducts of the eye, and underneath the arch of the eyebrow. 

I used a combination of '5 Angel' and the neutral, gold shade from Love The Revolution. Then, for a glittery effect, topped it up with 'Satin Sheets' from the Classic range in Boudoir Eyes. From the container, it looks pink, but on the skin it comes out beautifully shimmery, golden and metallic. 

If you want your eyes to look even more dramatic, as I did, you can also take an angled brush (like the opposite end of my No7 tool) and gently glide it under the bottom lashline, extending it upwards to the brow. This gives an intense smokey eyed look, which I think really pulls it altogether, despite looking a little like you have an infection!

I usually avoid wearing eyeliner in day-to-day life, mainly for the fact that I sometimes (always) overdo it in a desperate attempt to fix my terrible job of drawing the wing, or simply because I end up resembling a hard-faced drag queen. Occasionally I manage to pull it off, though, and I always feel it’s absolutely necessary when using false lashes.

Using the Lanc├┤me Le Crayon Kohl eyeliner pencil in 01 Noir, I draw delicately on the waterline of my eye, and just below my top lashes. I usually have to re-do this step as my eyes love to water and completely erase everything I’ve just done, but maybe you’ll have more luck than me! I then move onto So Susan Mesmer-Eyes Waterproof Liquid Eyeliner in Carbon and start with a small line across the top lid, extending into a wing at the outer corner of the eye. I trace over the first layer with another chunky eyeliner pen, like MUA Luxe Voluminous Felt Eyeliner in Black, as I like to use a thicker eyeliner to blend into the strip of lashes once I apply them. Thus bringing us to our next step... mascara!

It’s important to apply a little mascara to your top lashes before applying your falsies, not only to curl and lift your lashes for easier application, but also to blend your natural lashes with the fake ones. I apply two coats of Lanc├┤me Grandiose mascara in 01 Noir - Medium and allow to dry, then apply the supplied lash adhesive along the strip of  Eyelure Luxe Baroque minxeffect lashes and leave for 1-2 minutes to get tacky. I also trimmed these down a little as they were wayyy too long for my natural eye shape.

*(Pssst! another handy little trick I’ve learned is to bend the lashes into horseshoe shapes whilst they’re drying. Definitely prevents the weird straight block of sharpie on your eyelid look!)

Once they’re dry, I stare down into a mirror and apply the lashes as close to the natural lash line as possible. Sometimes this takes a couple of retries to get just right, and my left eye is definitely more awkward (due to my astigmatism in the right eye) but we get there eventually!

If need be, I’ll press the eyelid down onto the lash strip to hide any tracks, and hold a pair of tweezers against the lash strip for a few seconds to ensure they stay in place. I’ll apply another coat of mascara on top of the false lashes, and a few coats onto the bottom ones too.

By now, you may need to top up your eyeshadow and eyeliner a little after reapplying your lashes over and over - I know I did. I also applied concealer around the eyes once more to clean up any shadow residue, and under and over the eyebrows to give them more definition and shape.

P A R T  T H R E E :  F I N I S H I N G  T O U C H E S

The final step of this make-up routine involves us paying attention to the face once more - particularly through contour and highlight. I hadn’t forgot - don’t panic!

Using Too Faced Cocoa Contour Chiseled To Perfection, I applied Dark Cocoa using the Contour Buki Brush provided under the cheekbones, around the forehead and jawline, and down the sides of the nose to accentuate my cheekbones and soften any harsh angles. I would usually use Medium Cocoa for everyday use, but Dark is great for the nighttime or when you have a tan. Using the shade Light Cocoa (which is almost gone from my palette) I use the large RealTechniques powder brush to apply underneath the eyes, underneath the cheekbones, in the centre of the forehead and chin, and down the centre of the nose. This will bring attention to the areas where we want attention, and create a more flattering look combined with the shadowing effect of the contour.

Next, using the fabulously glittery shade Pop of Light, use the same powder brush and sweep it just above the cheekbones and underneath the eyebrow arch.

Easily my second favourite part of applying make-up is going extra with the highlighter. Using the adorable Unicorns Heart highlighter, I take the angled Chanel brush and gently sweep it over the cheekbones where we previously applied the Cocoa Contour, in the centre of the forehead, down the centre of the nose and under and over the brow arch. To give it a little more oomph, I also dab my finger into the highlight and gently press on the temples and Cupid’s bow - I find this helps the highlighter to last for much longer.

Last but not least, the lips!
First, prime your lips with a good lip balm: I like Vaseline’s limited edition Lip Therapy Mirror, or a classic, like Nivea pearly shine. Lining the outside of the lips with a nude lip liner (I think this one is from Collection 2000), I then take my Maybelline Colour Sensational lipstick in Tanatalizing Taupe and apply all over the lips, being careful to follow the line of liner. Before it dries, I also top it off with the LimeCrime Diamond Crushers lip topper in Pink Pearl. It adds a cool metallic shade to the base colour, and really makes them pop!

Once that’s finished, I spritz my face with a slight mist of hairspray (not too close, we don’t want it to be sticky!) to set the make up and keep it there all day. I really need to invest in a good setting spray, but I’ve been using this trick for years and it hasn’t failed me yet. 

And voila! You’re complete and ready to be wowed by your own reflection. Seriously, after I did this, I was taken aback every time I looked in a mirror for the rest of the night, and even thought I had already applied a filter when I switched on the camera on my phone!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and that it wasn’t too complicated. Obviously it’s not ideal for a go-to or natural make-up routine, but it’s perfect for a night out or special occasion. 

If you’d like to see a more natural, everyday make up look that I use, let me know and I’d love to post one! 

Have a great weekend x

Em xo


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